Warm-n-dri installation

See if your home symptoms are indications of foundation movement and learn what your repair options are. Basement Waterproofing. Crack Repair. Sump Pumps. Erosion Control. Basement Egress Window. Surface Water Management. Below Grade Waterproofing. Dampproofing Dampproofing is the process of spraying an asphalt material on the foundation wall that will resist moisture penetration.

Basement and Foundation Waterproofing Waterproofing is the process of sealing the foundation wall typically spraying to prevent moisture from penetrating the foundation structure.

Contact Us. Home Symptom Checker. About Us. Mahaffie Rd. Dimpled membranes with filter fabric: On these, the dimples face outward and are laminated to a layer of geotextile to protect against clogging.

Matrix panels: These form the air gap by using a tangle of thick plastic fibers. This product has been around for decades, which is always a good sign. Insulating drainage panels: These products provide both exterior insulation and drainage. The new kid on the block is Roxul Drainboard. This high-density mineral wool insulation board has good drainage characteristics and excellent compressive strength. Like fiberglass, mineral wool is impervious to water, insects, fire and pretty much anything else you can throw at it.

Some materials do double-duty as both a drainage layer and exterior basement insulation. Rigid rockwool is currently marketed as a commercial product and is not available in all areas. But it has some advantages over foam — it drains water well and is impervious to water and insects. Foam below grade can get excavated by insects for a nice, warm home.

Drainage Mats. As mentioned above, a dimpled or matrix-type drainage mat can go over the waterproofing to create a drainage space and capillary break, which means that it is less important to use granular backfill.

Some companies market these products as the primary waterproofing material. This can work with a well-functioning footing drain system.

However, if the footing drains silt up over time or cannot drain fast enough, and water backs up around the foundation, the drainage mat may not be enough. Hi, My wife and I are building a home in southern Illinois within the next year. I am looking for a waterproofing service provider who provide your above described services in this area. Louis, MO. What is to be done to avoid water leakage in three large basements in an old building. We are now using passive grouting with polyurethane foam but we cannot fully avoid leakage in each basement.

Is there a better approach? If you can redirect some or all of the surface water flowing toward the foundation, you can often reduce or eliminate leakage into the basement. Sometimes the solution is as simple as redirecting water from gutters and downspouts to a safe distance away from the building. A high water table exerting hydrostatic pressure against the basement wall is more difficult to solve, but it will be difficult to stop leakage without addressing the source of the water.

Typically, contractors will install an exterior waterproofing membrane and may install or repair the foundation footing drains to direct any subsurface water away from the foundation walls.

However, exterior excavation is often too expensive or may be impossible due to limited access — for example, adjacent properties are too close. Also the disruption to landscaping, planting, paving, and decks and porches can make exterior excavation expensive and unappealing. The most common approach to interior sealing is injection with epoxy or polyurethane foam.

The approach is determined by the size and characteristics of the crack, whether the crack is stable, and whether it is actively leaking. If the foundation is unstable and still shifting, structural repairs will need to be done before any waterproofing. Where the sealed crack needs to be as strong or stronger than the surrounding concrete, epoxy is often the best option.

Where the crack if fully stable and the only problem is water leakage, polyurethane foam can be very effective. Where the leak is active with flowing water, contractors typically drill holes to inject polyurethane deep into the crack to stop the water flow. Otherwise, flowing water can dilute the sealant and impair its performance.

Once the crack is dry, the contractor can use either polyurethane or epoxy. Some polyurethanes use moisture to cure, while others need a dry substrate. Modern dual-cartridge systems have made injection of epoxies and urethanes easier and more affordable. Where the water flow cannot be stopped, hydraulic cement or similar fast-set grouts are sometimes used. Hydraulic cement expands as it sets, plugging difficult leaks. Ultra fast-set grouts are proprietary formulations that bond chemically to the concrete.

The specific product used will depend on the site conditions and preferences of the contractor. It sometimes pays to have an independent third-party — typically an engineer — spec out a solution.

Whatever approach you choose, always get a guarantee in writing that the leakage will be eliminated. The expertise of the contractor is usually more important than the specific product used.

Look for someone with extensive experience with the type of leakage you are experiencing and check their references. Should I apply waterproof masonry paint to the interiors walls as an extra moisture barrier step before applying the XPS insulation? Interior waterproof paints and coatings on block or concrete basement walls are, at best, a temporary fix. If there is any moisture coming through the wall, it will cause the paint to peel and blister, and may cause efflorescence as well.

The only place to effectively control moisture entry though a basement wall is on the exterior. Hopefully you have at least coating of asphalt dampproofing on the exterior.

A drainage board on the exterior helps eliminate any hydrostatic pressure. A full waterproofing system, as described above, is the most foolproof solution and a good idea if you are planning prime living space below grade. If you have any active leaks in the wall , you will need to deal with these before insulating the wall.

In some cases, an interior drainage system is the most practical solution. The foam will protect the interior finish from any moisture that builds up behind the foam. Some of the moisture will be reabsorbed by the masonry, which is unaffected by moisture.

Over time, moisture can also slowly dry to the interior through the foam, as long as it is not foil-faced.